(Sarlat-la-Caneda, July 30-August 4, 2023) We left Bordeaux and hopped the train and headed East to Sarlat-la-Caneda. After a two-hour trip we were deep, deep into wine country by the Dordogne River. The endless YouTube videos we had previewed for our trip had convinced us that this medieval visit was not-to-be-missed. And they were right! It's a stunningly beautiful old village that is probably 1,000 years old. That we could traverse in an hour. We made the mistake of allotting six days to explore the magic kingdom. And no car to escape to any other ancient town or tourist site. There is hardly any public transportation in this neck of the woods because it's essentially a farming community growing grapes to satisfy the wine needs of the entire world. Luckily, our hotel had a pool but every time I went out there to take a dip, it would rain. Good for the grapes but definitely put the kibosh on my lounging poolside.
The architecture and little alley ways were enchanting and we walked them many, many times over. We also ate a lot of foie-gras, duck confit and truffles. It's big time around here. At night we would "enjoy" countless circus acts and musicians with a guitar and open case in front of them in the streets. Balloon blowers, a mime we fondly called "Marcel Marceau" who winked at me, and even a classical flutist were the evening's entertainment. Families with small children filled the streets because this was, after all, the magic kingdom! Crepe shops, candy stores, gelato and ice cream and souvenir shops were everywhere. Escaping in the other direction to do our laundry one day was a welcome relief.
One day we took the train to Bergerac - not too far- to ride the boats called "gabarres." This is a tourist version of what the barges were like a couple of hundred years ago. Long and flat-bottomed, they would take wine and goods from the region to Bordeaux for sale. Unfortunately, these were not motorboats and up to 100 unfortunate men would have to haul it from shore along the tow path. All the way to Bordeaux. Can you imagine? Remember- this was a two-hour train ride!
We walked from the train station into the town and found the gabarre station at the riverside. Naturellement! We bought our tickets, boarded with lots of families on vacay, puttered along the river, saw a couple of herons and other waterbirds and enjoyed the breeze. And then motored back to the dock. Afterwards, a stroll through the souvenir shop area and old town, very scenic, and then a refreshment in an outdoor cafe. Now would be a great time to mention how much the French LOVE their outdoor cafes. They will let you sit there for hours with just a coffee or glass of wine and nobody chases you off to turn the table. It's always relaxing to watch the people go by and discuss the charms of the day. Most of the restaurants in the touristic sections are small indoor cafes, with every square inch of sidewalk space possible filled with tiny bistro tables. The only thing missing is an accordion player with a French beret. We did enjoy that on the subway one day, but it's not "de rigeur" any longer. Another French phrase I am tossing about! A walk to the train, then back to the magic kingdom!
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